KZ_K Studio is a New York City based ready-to-wear luxury fashion brand that everyone should know about. This brand focuses on slow fashion, local production, limited quantities along with minimal and multifunctional designs. We spoke with Karolina Zmarlak, who is the co-founder, designer, and creative director of the brand. She immigrated from communist Poland in the 90's. With limited resources, she had only a few items, but they were made with the utmost quality by local craftspeople. This led to her appreciation for the less is more mentality which she instills in the KZ_K Studio brand. The newest Warm Cycle (or Spring Collection) incorporates various sustainable fabrics including cupro, plant dyed organic cotton, and recycled polyester. Continue reading below to learn more about KZ_K Studio and the beautiful multi-functional pieces they create through sustainable practices!

Where are you based?
We are a NY based brand that recently opened a new studio on Great Jones Street in NYC.

What inspired the creation of KZ_K Studio?
I was on the train home with my partner, Jesse Keyes, from his architect Grandfather’s place in Washington DC, on Jan 1, 2009, when we conceived of a fashion line that would hew to the tenants of multi-functionalism, a foundational notion within the discipline of architecture. We wanted to make pieces that could be worn, each in many variations, and together in a series of alternative and creative ways to fit the unique functional and aesthetic needs of modern women. I had developed a made-to-measure business with Jesse, up until that point: https://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/08/27/sandras-sources-the-collective/

But as the Great Recession hit, this new concept would allow our clients a similar kind of personalization, but would also be oriented toward creating value: buy 1 piece and wear it in 3 ways.

KZ_K Studio has taken a highly sustainable approach through slow fashion, limited quantities, and using technologically advanced fabrics. Can you tell us more about this sustainable focus? Why is sustainability important to you?
We see sustainable fashion as a contradiction in terms, but rather think about our design, development and sales as responsible. We are responsible in our purchasing in that we only buy from countries where we are certain they employ environmentally responsible fabric manufacturing processes, namely in Europe and Japan. In addition, these same countries responsibly pay every person who works within the value chain reasonably, so each can maintain a decent quality of life. This means the fabrics we buy are expensive, and they also fall in line with our value system. Responsible also means we produce quantities that are in line directly with our full retail price sales expectations. We never go on sale, we are careful to plan smaller productions that fit with our direct to client majority model (via our studio and events we hold throughout the country), and more than happy to take back at full price any unsold items from our retail partners. We have designed each piece to last for a lifetime of use, and that the ultimate responsibility for us lies in each piece’s durability. To sell more volume at discount is anathema to our studio values. Our responsible thinking also relates to the choice we make to spend 10X, to cut, sew and sample only with our partners here in New York City, never in a minimally regulated, low-cost foreign country. We all know that low costs lead to environmental and social abuses.

Can you tell us more about technologically advanced fabrics? What does this mean? Why are they more sustainable?
There are a few ways to understand technologically advanced: materials that are used in unique combinations that result in specific qualities, like texture, strength, elasticity, volume, and the like, which then enables us to integrate them into our multi functional designs. Another, and, perhaps, more important, is durability, thus with a “quality” that is inherently resistant to friction, scrapes, frizz, loss of shape stretching. With these “advances,” which always come at a price, we can rely on the fabrics and leathers to withstand a lifetime of use.

The newest Warm Cycle (or Spring Collection) incorporated many sustainable fabrics including plant dyed organic cotton, Cupro, and recycled polyester. Can you tell us more about the collection and the materials you use?
During the developmeny of the newest cycle 1, 2022 we focused on selecting our fabrics with a mindful focus on finding recycled, organic and responsibly sourced fabrics and materials. We spent more time speaking to our mills and tanneries discussing their most sustainable resources and seeking out fabrics that are both advanced and created with more responsible standards. The mills expressed that the more designers request and push for sustainability and human rights standards, they keep adjusting their standards with their resources.

Cotton Linen Textured Stripe: This fabric features a specialty knitting technique called the Karl Mayer’s Knitting Technique for stripes using a multi-speed function to produce stripes with a 3-D character. Utilizing different yarn qualities and dual colorways, emphasizes the stripes and creates and strong textural element in the garment. The fabric has natural stretch, and has a lightweight, breathable feel and touch.

Plant Dyed Organic Cotton: The organic knit is dyed with foods such as rooibos tea, red turnip, blueberries, coffee beans, and matcha. Woven with soft yet durable yarns, the knit allows for extreme comfort and functionality with ease of movement. The engineered ribbing on the center front body, neckline, armhole, and hem of the garment for verticality of lines and repeat texture. The lightness and breathability of the yarn allows for comfortable wear throughout the spring and summer months.

Organic Cotton Jersey with Antibacterial Properties: This knit is produced with in an eco-friendly and sustainable manner. The fabric is treated with a grapefruit antibacterial treatment that keeps both you and the fabric fresh.

Recycled Polyester: This recycled polyester is made from recycled plastic bottles, diverting plastic from landfills and oceans. Recycled polyester uses 59% less energy than traditional polyester. The flowy fabric drapes elegantly while resisting wrinkles.

Every piece emphasizes a modernist and multifunctional look. What is the inspiration for this style?
Seriousness in design and execution, precision that demands all my energy, focus and attention is tantamount to inspiration, so that the final product serves a functional, durable and aesthetic purpose for my client. I do it for the demands of the creative process and the pleasure of sharing. Michelin starred Chef Arzak in San Sebastian once said: “be serious, be technical, but always share what you’ve made with joy and a laugh.”

Each piece of clothing is beautifully crafted and carefully curated. What is the design process for creating such detailed designs?
Each collection (one for cool weather, one for warm weather, each year) is fundamentally conceived in a specific movement of art, architecture or both, then conceptually developed in theory and visuals in our studio. We then connect our fabric and leather selections to our set of sketches, developing patterns with our team, then cut muslins and create sample collections, all draped, cut and sewn in the Garment District. Finally, we communicate, developing thoughtful sets of collateral through our Great Jones Street Studio, with the ultimate aim: a set of private atelier/studio appointments with our clients and stylists. The process of a full Cycle development takes place over 9-10 months.

Also, a lot of your pieces are reversible, why was this feature important to you?
The importance of reversibility is one, technical, we have striven for over the years to create new techniques that permit pieces to reverse, for seams to seem seamless, for finishes on one side to have the same exact standards as others on the other side. This has created a design discipline, and series of techniques, to which we adhere, and one which we enjoy attempting to always improve upon. More importantly, we see this reversibility as a means for our clients to engage with, and have a dialogue with the pieces, so she can personalize, creatively the look and use of these multi-functional pieces. To find ones own identity is to to structure it as it relates to perception of the self and the outside world. Reversibility permits personalization.

The pandemic was rough for fashion, how did you stay positive during the ups and downs? Are you back to normal now?
Because to loyal and meaningful client relationships we’ve developed since we re-envisioned the brand as one of a direct to client architecture studio mentality, we were able to maintain many digital online forums in the start of the pandemic, and as of June, 2020, we began traveling throughout the country to private events, trunk shows and intimate store appearances. We have emerged stronger than ever, as during this time, we expanded our private clients, have more and deeper stylist relationships than ever, and our retailers (the ones we work with) have also maintained those close client relationship ties. We help them to strengthen those ties, through personal appearances I do throughout the Spring and Fall. Finally, our 35 Great Jones Street studio has been developed to create a cultural experience for all clients who visit NYC, to add to their list of must do’s. Along with restaurants, museums and Broadway, we offer a creative party with education and fashion at the studio, which keeps our clients coming and our business vibrant.

Do you feel fashion has changed since we have emerged from our sheltering?
We hope that fashion slows down, focuses on concept, design and function, and relays meaningful design for the purpose of client-driven functional and aesthetic needs. In other words, we aim for “slow fashion.” Has the fashion world changed (as a whole) from brand driven overconsumption? No, but we are fashion refugees, and there are many other designers on our team.

What is your motto in life?
“Ever try, ever fail,
No matter,
Try again, fail again,
Fail better”
Samuel Becket

To learn more about KZ_K Studio, please follow them via the links below:
Website: kzkstudionyc
Instagram: @karolinazmarlak

Learning That Less is More with Sustainable Fashion Brand KZ_K Studio