Trending at New York Fashion Week: Women’s Power Suit Meets Whimsy and Comfort
RVNG Couture; photographed by @georgepimentel1
When Hillary Clinton was elected to the United States Senate in 2000, she proclaimed in her victory speech: "Sixty-two counties, 16 months, three debates, two opponents, and six black pantsuits later, because of you, here we are."
Hillary’s words provide a basis for commentary on the woman’s hustle in the workplace that is translated through the aesthetic of the women’s power suit. Women’s suits have an interesting history in the 20th century - ranging from the uniform of suffragettes in the United States to the couture designs of Coco Chanel and Yves St. Laurent. I myself have a deep appreciation for women’s suits. My first job out of college was working in the fitting room at The Limited - a women’s wear company that was known for their feminine workwear and a wide variety of pantsuits. On my first day, I used my employee discount to buy a formal midnight black jacket with two buttons and matching black pants that had a slightly flared leg. Each one of my paycheques went to purchasing new suit options from The Limited and designer brands (my favorite purchase being a silk leopard-print Kate Spade blazer with a matching mini-skirt). A suit is my outfit of choice for the office and I treat each of my blazers with the care that an art curator would have for a Monet.
However, as 2020 has unfolded, I haven’t been tempted to wear or buy another suit. During the pandemic, there has been a micro-cosmic crisis in workwear. With many Americans working from the confines and comfort of their homes, is there still a need for workwear? Further, can we still appreciate the formality of a blazer let alone a pair of matching trousers that will go unnoticed on our daily Zoom meetings? I’m still hustling like Hillary Clinton trying to break into the Senate as a woman and wife of a previous President... but is an entire black pantsuit necessary for that? I see several designers at New York Fashion Week for Spring 2021 answering these questions in delightfully playful and hopeful ways with fresh takes on the women’s power suit that combines flair with comfort.
Starting off the virtual live stream runway shows, Jason Wu presented his Spring 2021 collection on a sandy resort runway with a winding, boarded path that snaked its way across a Manhattan rooftop. The atmosphere was as peaceful as an isolated beach, located in a dreamy oasis reminiscent of carefree travels to tropical destinations. The models did not don masks. Instead, they were in loose-fitting garments that rustled in the breeze as they strutted by green fronds of tropical vegetation. Wu’s collection featured relaxed pantsuits that ranged from deep jewel tones to crisp white. Boyfriend blazers were paired with casual bras (appealing to both fashion and comfort) and accompanied by flaring bermuda shorts and wide-leg pants. The ready-to-wear aspect of the collection connected with me in my desire to feel more professional while working at home, especially if I could feel like I could also be relaxing at a cabana.
On a different rooftop in lower Manhattan, Flying Solo sent chic and sexy suit-inspired pieces down the runway. The structured collars and shoulders of jackets and dresses drape over the models in an effortless fashion. I was very drawn to the versatile boldness of the pieces, which when paraded alongside the New York City skyline, became instantly unmatched by any current item in my closet. The general theme of Fashion Week has been whimsy and fantasy, and I like that Flying Solo exhibited an edgy take on this year’s trends.
Flying Solo at 433 Broadway; photographed by @mattlicariphoto
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RVNG Couture, from Canadian fashion designer Jordan Stewart, premiered their Spring 2021 collection on a ground-level runway amid the cityscape. Light and airy dresses alongside whimsical suits showcased a beautiful rainbow of monochromatic hues. I felt as if I had entered a dream landscape of sequins, silk, and feminine magic. The collection flaunted extremely breathable fabrics, tailored just-so, for an effortless appearance of structured comfort. The suits ranged from a take on 80’s fashion with a double-breasted blazer to a beautiful and relaxed hot-pink two-piece silk set with a matching headscarf. I immediately lusted after the wide-legged pants that accompanied many of the blazers, thinking of the comfort of the extra room and the flow of the fabric.
RVNG Couture; photographed by @georgepimentel1
RVNG Couture; photographed by @georgepimentel1
RVNG Couture; photographed by @georgepimentel1
Gothic romance is captured in macgraw’s spring collection video. Set in a rural landscape with a delicate wedding chapel in the background, macgraw’s suits are loose-fitting double-breasted blazers adorned with blooming floral crystal buttons. With the matching pants for both the solid black and red floral print, there was a feeling of quiet feminine power that exuded from the suits. If you watch their Spring Collection video, you will not be able to stop picturing yourself in these suits.
Bonus: macgraw is very conscious of sustainability.
Seeing so many fashion designers send suits down the runway and include suits in their look books gave me an odd sense of hope. Whether it be a tug at nostalgia or a boost in motivation towards self-presentation, I know that my suit-wearing days are not behind me -- and like our contemporary designers, I have the power to adapt in a positive way towards play and whimsy. After all, if I’m going to hustle from home, I might as well be fashionably comfortable.
